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  Home Auction Resources & Tools Auction Tips & Tactics

 




Declaring Accurate Grades


Mint, near mint, fair, good--what's the difference? That's what uninformed buyers sometimes wonder when faced with technical grading terminology. Furthermore, it's important for sellers to have an accurate grasp of grading terms so that buyers are not mislead or misinformed when deciding whether to place a bid on an auction. That said, our tip clarifies general grading terminology and offers some helpful advice on how to avoid surprising--and angering--customers by sending them an item that isn't exactly what they expected.

The Preliminaries

First, there are no universal grades for all collecting disciplines. Though often quite similar, slight variations exist. For instance, the standards used for coins and comic books are somewhat different; or one discipline might use "excellent" whereas another prefers "fine." (Coin dealers and collectors use designations such as extremely fine, about uncirculated, and brilliant uncirculated.) Make sure that you're familiar with the terminology that has been adopted for your particular area (or areas) of interest, whether it's coins, books, stamps, comics, magazines, trading cards, LPs, or furniture. It's up to you to be a responsible seller and provide your customers with the most accurate information possible.

Second, assigning grades to items can be subjective, even though there are general agreed upon specifications. One person's "fine" can be another's "good." In addition to including a grade in your item description, you also should describe the item in detail, especially if there are any flaws or imperfections. In other words, don't just say "near mint" and leave it at that; the buyer should be told why it isn't mint. Thus, you might state the following: "Near mint; the book contains one slight blemish: a small, circular stain on the title page." Remember: Grading terms are almost useless unless buyer and seller have a mutual understanding of what they mean.

The Terms

Here are some of the commonly used grading terms, along with brief definitions and examples. However, please note that these are very general guidelines and amalgams of multiple disciplines; they should not be substituted for the specificity of a particular discipline.

Mint: An item that's in absolutely perfect condition, without any blemishes or imperfections. The equivalent "as new" is used for books.

Near Mint: An item with a very minor flaw. This can include a small mark or blemish in a book, a hardly noticeable production deficiency in a baseball card, or a quilt that has a tiny snag or slight discoloration. Depending on the discipline, sometimes the price of a mint or near mint item might not differ very much--or not at all. For example, some comic book price guides assign the same price for mint and near mint comics.

Very Fine: An item in overall excellent condition that also exhibits tiny imperfections, such as a small crease in a comic book or a trading card that shows small signs of age.

Fine: An item that is still considered above average but demonstrates more pronounced signs of wear (yellowing of pages in a comic book, or a magazine cover starting to lose its gloss). Excellent is used instead of fine in some fields--in quilt collecting, for example; a quilt described as excellent could have been washed once or twice but not enough times so that its value has been substantially diminished.

Very Good: An item that is considered to be in average condition. A comic book in this condition might have a substantial tear or noticeable crease. Magazines might show some spine wear, light cover soiling, rub marks, or multiple creases. Books deemed as very good will exhibit some small signs of wear, but no tears on either the binding or paper. A record will show some signs of wear (such as scratches), while a coin will lack fine detailing.

Good: An item that has clear indications of age, wear, and use. It's possible that such an item might have too many defects to garner much resale value. In comics, this could include big tears; in books, noticeable corner rounding or significant creasing. A coin classified as good can indicate that major designs are visible but that there's faintness in certain areas.

Fair: An item that is heavily worn. With trading cards, this might include soiling and/or creasing. For a comic book to be considered fair, it must have at least a partial cover and all its pages. In the case of a book, its binding or jacket might be significantly tattered.

Poor: An item that is damaged or incomplete. For books or magazines, this might include water damage and missing pages, as well as a missing cover. Merchandise considered poor has little or no value to collectors.

Plus Signs, Abbreviations, and More

You'll also see plus or minus signs next to grading terms (fine+), as well as abbreviations of the above terms (M for mint, NM for near mint, VG for very good, etc.). In addition, some sellers employ terms that sound official but are not in fact generally recognized as bona fide grading terms. For example, an unknowing seller might describe an item as "very nice"--a designation that has no real meaning. Your best bet is to do some research and homework. Know the grading terms for the item you're selling. Consult collector clubs, books, articles, and the Internet, which is turning into a great resource for grading and pricing information.

Final Thought

On the one hand, grading terms serve as a convenient method of shorthand identification so that people quickly can determine the general condition of an item; on the other hand, they create room for confusion if the seller and the buyer are not on the same page. It's OK to use grading terms in your auction descriptions, but don't make the mistake of relying on them solely. In fact, some sellers shy away from using technical grading terms, preferring only detailed descriptions instead. The bottom line: Note any flaws, be as honest and forthcoming as possible, attach a photo (or photos, if necessary) to your auctions, and find out whether the particular item you're selling still can be considered valuable if its condition is anything less than good.


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